#Young creator growth program

Where’s the address? Not telling?

He had a set of pulleys but no mini drill press, so built a portable rechargeable desktop drill press with no cord; drills square steel like cutting butter and even large threaded rod. Materials list (with prices): 795 motor 12–24V ¥28.9, drill chuck + 5mm adapter ¥15.28, 20/60-tooth pulleys ¥12.1, two tapered roller bearings (10mm bore) ¥10, linear bearing ¥5.5, flanged linear bearing ¥15.2, 10mm shaft 40cm (¥17.5/m), 5mm shaft 10cm (¥39.9/10), M6×90 hex socket screws ¥3.73/5 sets, small 5×10 bearings ¥17/10, springs ¥4.3/10; electronics: 6 × 18650 2600mAh 10C (¥343 per 100), 6S 35A balancing BMS ¥23.74, DC 7–100V charge meter ¥10.9, IP2369 PD 45W 2–6S charge/discharge module ¥21.3, 6mm rocker switch ¥1.9; if you don't want Li-ion, skip the cells and BMS and run direct DC; if you don't have a spot welder and other professional tools, better not build a Li-ion pack. Battery: main positive and negative brought out on nickel strip to the BMS; many people struggle with balance leads, just remember: from negative to positive, one per series group, sampling each group's voltage; fit the balancing BMS and spot-weld the negative, plug in the balance leads; some BMS boards need an input 2–3V higher than the pack for a second or two on first power-up to activate; measuring around 21V output means it's active. Mechanical parts modelled to size, free and open-source on MakerWorld, PLA printing takes four plates and a dozen-odd hours, ¥20-odd in filament. Assembly: cells into the box recess, fit the charge meter, main positive reserved as a lead, charging module glued in at the Type-C cutout; meter negative, charger negative and main output negative all go to the BMS negative output; BMS charge input lead to the charging module negative, the other to the module positive, flick the module's little switch and the light comes on, working normally, Type-C both charges and can discharge to a phone; the pack positive's other lead goes to the switch's centre pin (input); output load lead, meter positive and sense lead twisted together onto the switch output; switch into its reserved hole; power on, meter lights up, close the lid; tap the shaft into its round hole. Head: small bearings top and bottom, tapered bearing (10mm bore printed adapter down to 5, tight space makes it a struggle to fit, a design failure), drill-bit adapter, flanged linear bearing with 4 screws, the other linear bearing, chuck, motor bracket with 4 screws, motor, small pulley grub screw, belt (better to fit the belt before the pulley); turntable base with two screws, loosen/tighten to adjust table height; the bottom clamp's third set of hex screws adjusts bit angle; springs on the two vertical rods; the handle's pivoting link copies an old hand-pump well, copper wire through the outer hole to stop it slipping off; power leads to the motor, dust cover. Test drill: after one hole it wobbles and vibrates badly, the shaft isn't vertical, the head model has a serious problem; taking it apart shows the plastic already fused and scorched; while drilling the bit pushes upward, rubbing the plastic until it heats and melts; remodel so the tapered bearings go in from the outside, one top and one bottom, stopping upward push and downward drop, the bearing inner race spins with the bit without rubbing; found that the small bearing's 10mm OD works as a reducer for the 5mm shaft; nearly two hours to reprint, fitting difficulty and friction heat perfectly solved; square steel like tofu, threaded rod not quite all the way through but close, good enough for a desktop mini drill press. Comments: made one too (4); don't cost it at 10cm, nobody sells 10cm; how much do you spend a month on inventions; add a fixture to turn beads; make it waterproof to cut bottles; main column too thin and too many plastic parts, poor rigidity, fine for fun; the rear column needs a really thick tube; can you make a mini table saw (tutorial coming).

Post your address,

First-person repair vlog. Job one, a herbal decoction pot whose light won't come on: both switches fine, resistance reads 23 megohm which is wrong, the resistor is definitely dead, try a 200 ohm (spoken as 240; 499W trips, 300W), burn two resistors and watch the little lantern; the wire is broken too, and after the controller is repaired and powered the LED burns out again; oh well, fix it anyway, charge ¥10. Job two, a cordless vacuum with short runtime: open it up and test the battery; remove the fish paper on both sides; fit new domestic grade-A cells; measure each cell's internal resistance 13.44, 14.60, 15, 16, keep the resistance consistent; spot-weld at gear 16; after welding, voltage 3.8/3.8 OK; charging at 13.5W 500mA, charging is right. Job three, a smart washing machine: keeps filling non-stop and won't wash even when full, carried in; with no power the water doesn't come in with the tap open, but starts the moment it's switched on; check for air leaks; fit a new water-level sensor, sealed with glue, no test needed, 'the thing that senses the water level'; ¥50; glue dries overnight, test tomorrow; 'next time you need me it'll be after New Year'; perfect fix. Comments: can a TV that got knocked be fixed, can a broken clip be fixed, the Taiyuan folks want to visit, good skills and fair prices, why isn't the son on camera.

The kitchen knife is blunt; experts use a whetstone, I’m a novice, so build a portable rechargeable belt grinder: forward / reverse adjustable, charge display, a neat power switch, stepless like a gas pedal; kitchen knives and machetes come up sharp with a quick pass, belts are swappable, one minute and it cuts vegetables like tofu; cost ¥100-something. Core parts: belt-grinder head kit ¥44 (comes with 5 belts, drive wheel / idler); 795 motor ¥28.9 (with mount and dust cover, 200W). Assembly problems: the motor shaft is smaller than the drive-wheel bore, so buy 5mm ID / 8mm OD bushings (¥19.5 for 5), heat the drive wheel so it expands and drop the bushing in, then lock the grub screw to clamp the motor shaft; the frame holes don’t line up with the motor holes and can’t be drilled (the original design wasn’t for a 775/795), so he models a base and housing (with battery bay and slots for the electronics) plus a motor bracket, 3D prints them, and will release the models free and open source; two screws hold the bracket to the motor, the other side to the steel frame, drive wheel fitted; changing a belt means removing the idler; a quick power-up to fine-tune the idler until it runs smooth. Battery: for portability, 18650 2000mAh 5C-discharge at ¥3 each, 9 cells for 12V (3S3P, 12.6V 6000mAh); battery meter DC7-100V ¥10.9; forward / reverse via a KCD1 6-pin 3-position rocker switch, ¥13 for 10; Type-C 3S charge-management module ¥11.8. Spot-weld the nickel tabs on; note the parallel / series joins are welded in a “box” pattern so the balance BMS actually works, otherwise it only balances one group; wrap in fish paper for insulation and heat isolation; fit the 3S 60A 12.6V balance BMS (¥6.1) — separate-port, so both input and output leads must be connected; pack goes into the printed box, input side to the Type-C charging module, plug in and it charges normally. Fit the lit metal latching button ¥6.9: switch input to the pack’s output positive; button negative and meter negative twisted into one lead; meter positive, sense lead, switch output and switch positive twisted into one lead; the negative lead to the pack’s output negative; into the input of the adjustable buck-boost module ¥15.3, then the master switch; the light comes on, so the wiring is OK. Forward / reverse rocker switch: the middle pins are the power input, and whichever of top or bottom is used as output needs two jumpers crossed to the other side’s pins — the principle is simply swapping positive and negative; switch input from the buck-boost output; the buck-boost raises 12V to 24V so the 795 is more brutal and spins faster; not building 24V directly because 12V is smaller, portable use doesn’t need long runtime, and 12V parts are in stock. Output leads out of the box to the motor; lid on; the frame bottom is screwed to a bracket and strong glue fixes the frame to the box base; motor positive and negative connected; job done; test grind works really well and fast, usable for DIY too. 102 comments: this is the way, no argument (7); is a 12V motor enough? why forward / reverse for sharpening? sourcing (2) → every part has detailed sourcing info in the video; where to buy components / is LCSC reliable (2); add a rest to fix the angle (1); an angle grinder takes seconds → too aggressive, the edge quenches; does dry grinding anneal it → no; isn’t a bowl bottom good enough (many); wasn’t this on your livestream → yes; posting at 4 a.m. → afraid of copycats; which 3D printer; the kit is only ¥40-something, don’t rip people off; help fix two streetlight lithium packs.

Opening: a customer blames the boss for not fixing a battery problem — “you’ve got me wrong, have a Zhonghua on me” — the Soaiy speaker shows volume as soon as it’s twisted, turns out it just wasn’t charging; Bluetooth / radio modes fine, no mic mode so Bluetooth is right; voltage measures 3.67 vs 0.7… “this battery is fine; just one volt on the other, that’s a big gap, go buy two batteries”. The kid’s thing works plugged in but not unplugged = the battery inside is dead and won’t charge, swap it and OK; the cable burned and was replaced before, the socket is discolored and needs replacing too, hang on. The old stove has run seven or eight years and is hard to fix; weak water feed is a common fault, try a steering motor first, give up if that doesn’t do it; the board is aging; two motors (rotation / water feed), and a bad water motor upsets the steering too; people often fail to fix things, take them apart and bring the pile over. Soaiy follow-up: “you didn’t even put the batteries in right, you’ve got me wrong” — measured voltage for ages, all normal, small screw fitted, done. A camera with no charge and won’t take one: check for charge current, long unused, the alternating red LED flags two faults — battery bad or water in the board; battery seems more likely, it’s fairly new with no water damage; fit a good cell — “give it unlimited learning opportunities; this cell is a bit wasted in there, overkill, an absolutely good cell”. Dongcheng pack: high-temp fish paper for insulation against cell-to-cell shorts, voltage present, LED steady not blinking, charging at 9W 1.7A; red charge LED steady; bye, kid. Comments: please tell us the fault causes and how you test / fix; a noodle machine unused for ages won’t charge, fixable?; a cordless vacuum won’t run; address; honest repairman.

Opens with ‘Second Battalion Commander, your Italian cannon’. The romance the New Year deserves: walkie-talkie in hand, set off firecrackers remotely by voice, load 5 at a time for burst or single shots; materials are scrap steel pipe and rebar plus a few dozen yuan of electronics; the principle is a WiFi transmitter and receiver controlling ignition. Mechanics: cut pipe and weld a rack, a pivoting joint at the bottom to adjust the angle, a tail so it stands stable; the front support uses old rebar and galvanised pipe, also adjustable; firecracker clip: slot the pipe for the clip bracket, weld a slide on the short end on the other side, weld as many pipes onto the base as shots you want (5), weld nuts at the head and the slide’s tail, cut a fuse groove in the pipe; the clip rides the slide, a rubber band through the screw hole anchors to the base, and after ignition it springs to the next one for automatic feed. Electronics (with shopping screenshots): one 2000mAh 18650 (¥3) powers the walkie-talkie (transmitter) with a 5V charge/discharge module (¥2.85); 6 old salvaged 1500mAh cells make the 24V pack with a 24V 6S balance BMS (NMC 6S common-port 35A with balancing, ¥25.74); a CC/CV adjustable buck-boost module (¥15.3) charges the pack, 5–30V wide input; an XL4005 adjustable buck module (¥5.5) takes 24V → 5V for the MCU; a USB port powers the ESP8266; 2 × ESP8266 (¥13.94), one transmit, one receive; ASR-PRO voice-recognition dev board (¥26.2) + small speaker; 5V relay module (¥2.9) switches the ignition; 24V high-voltage ignition kit (high-frequency transformer, two pins produce an arc). Programming: the voice module uses the vendor’s Chinese block-based tool, wake word ‘Second Battalion Commander’, commands ‘bring up my Italian cannon / fire / open fire / launch / stop / continuous fire / stop continuous fire’, sent over serial to the ESP8266, with synthesised voice generated in the model and flashed; the transmitter ESP8266 in VSCode PlatformIO: opens a hotspot + TCP server, relays the voice serial data, reconnects on drop, 300-odd lines; the receiver connects to the transmitter and handles ignition / auto cut-off / continuous fire, with its own hotspot serving a phone web page for settings (cut-off time etc.), 700-odd lines; flash and test via serial log. 3D-modelled boxes (ignition head, receiver box, transmitter box), open-source on MakerWorld for printing. Assembly: remove the ignition head’s HV leads, pass them through the box and re-solder, lengthen the power lead; the 24V pack is 6 cells in series, 25.2V full, 24.63V on the multimeter after spot welding, wrapped in fish paper, main + and − nickel tabs spot-welded on; balance leads run from the main positive, one per group in order; the balance BMS only takes the negative input and negative output, the positive bypasses the board and goes straight out; plug in the balance leads; the BMS is inactive by default and needs a moment of 26V+ to activate; voltage tests fine, boxed up, snug fit; the buck-boost output set to 25.2V and connected to a parallel pair of leads on the pack; the 24V output feeds the buck module set to 5V; forgot a switch, so cut the lead, extended it and added one; 5V leads to the USB socket; the relay also needs 5V, taken from the 5V buck; the buck-boost output also feeds two 24V leads, positive through the relay to the ignition head; relay 5V + IN signal + 24V in/out extended to the ignition pack, controlled by the ESP8266 high/low level; fit the ESP8266, Type-C power, aviation-connector socket as the charge port; power-up test — charge LED on, the switch wiring doesn’t smoke, manually triggering the relay gives a normal arc, receiver done. Transmitter: the voice module’s two serial wires go to the ESP8266 serial with RX/TX crossed; 18650 + 5V common-port module, nickel tabs spot-welded onto the cell to make soldering easier, then + and − leads soldered on and into the module input, Type-C charging with green flashing for charge and blue for discharge; two Type-C leads with + and − paralleled into one input, plus a switch (one end to 5V +, negative straight through, switch output to the Type-C +); fit the ESP8266, speaker on the lid, voice module, Type-C common-port module; the two Type-C leads feed the voice module and the ESP8266; power-on test, ‘fire!’ OK; lid on, a decorative ‘soul antenna’; phone into the config page to set auto cut-off time / continuous fire; the ignition head is fixed to the rack with an acrylic sheet for insulation, ignition pins glued so the arc lights the fuse; outdoor test, ‘fire!’, fires in sequence, works really well. 257 comments: does this count as manufacturing a firearm (an entertainment toy, not a weapon); I’ve only programmed 8266 with Arduino, can I learn this (absolutely); how to program it (follow the video); a rotary-drum launcher would be perfect (sold online); is it open-source; the pipe has no rifling; won’t the police have a word; are you selling, how much; fireworks are banned.

An embedded automation programmer goes home and fixes appliances for the village elderly for free. 1) Rice cooker: the light flashing on the repair socket means a loose connection, just push it in firmly; boil water to test the response, water temperature rising from 35°C, heating ring at 100-plus, one done. 2) Hair dryer: no response from the switch, so the switch is suspect; two screws out, it has been opened before and the switch tied with string; multimeter on continuity, the switch pressed shows no continuity; the switch clip is broken, inside is a copper leaf + latch + spring, the two contacts on the copper leaf are burnt, and a diode is wired in for the speed change; no such switch on hand, so the burnt parts of the contacts are cleaned and it goes back, fixed with strong glue instead of string; gear one and two latch fine; the original soldering was sloppy — joints must be solid or they arc, and an arc at the grip is dangerous; suggest a varistor in series across the switch input / output; powered up, back to full health. 3) Cordless drill battery bay won’t charge: odd screws, swap the bit; barely charges and the gauge drops on one press, most likely the cells need replacing; 5S, 21V at full charge; when removing the BMS mind the 4 balance leads; clean off the old nickel, keep the holder; originally 1500mAh each, replaced with 5 new 2000mAh cells with 3C certification; measure every cell’s internal resistance before fitting, this batch all around 17mΩ, fine for a Li-ion drill’s power needs; the original had no fish paper but a ring is best, the 18650 shorts most easily right at that ring; in series order, spot-weld the series nickel strips first, then the main + and − strips, last the balance leads; refit the BMS, tin with the iron and solder the balance-lead nickel strips to the board, connect the main + and − last; check for cold joints; fish paper back on, into the battery bay, screws in; the red charge light is normal, the drill pulls hard. 4) Two membrane keyboards merged into one: swap the cable, note the wire order and numbers, the membrane contacts must line up with the board and be pressed with the clamp bar, cable into its slot, add heat-shrink. 5) Hair dryer plug with one long and one short pin: fit a rice-cooker cord, high power so tin the joints to avoid heating, wrap in tape and heat-shrink. Sign-off: night view of the mountain hollow, ‘maybe I can’t make my hometown rich, but I can contribute a little with what I’ve learned’. 260 comments: five cells out of your own pocket, don’t do this kind of job again (3) → creator: lost my shirt; suggest more close-ups (screws, soldering, multimeter readings) → noted; hold the iron by the grip (proper practice); serving the people, down to earth; that workbench is my dream → I’ll make one.

Job one: the customer brings a Dyson vacuum and a switch part he bought himself at home but couldn’t fit — ‘I reckon the repair guy is all talk’ — let’s see today whether he is; take it out, fit a new one, test run, installed, perfect repair. Job two: a speaker that won’t turn on, open it and see what’s wrong: prying like this is the easiest way to set the battery on fire (a warning); grab a new cell, spot weld it; a bit of tape; it has power, OK, see if it plays; fill it up with glue for the customer, a bit more glue; watch the charging current — the wattage comes up, OK; charging; the little heart-shaped color-light speaker with a screen, perfect repair. Comments: the most refined man on Douyin (creator liked it); if you were nearby I’d bring my pressure cooker; should the Dyson be opened and blown out; post your address (creator: you can find it here too); can you come fix a water heater (yes, happy to take that off your hands); can you fix charging shoes.

Somehow ended up making a few fun color-changing night lights / mood lights as a gift for the students who took a term of the science maker extension class — a little present for the last lesson, tied to what we covered. Simple parts: a cell, a charge-management module, a switch and a color-changing LED bead; the LED draws only 0.01A, so one 2000mAh 18650 keeps it lit for a month; the goals were long runtime, fun color changing, durable, rechargeable, simple and cheap to make. Build: nickel strip is already welded to the cell’s +/−; fold the strip over so it doesn’t stick out, and a wrap of tape around the outside makes it more secure; the cell’s +/− go to the charge-management module, charged over a Type-C cable, the module charges the cell at 4.2V; the module’s 5V output goes to the +/− leads; the LED negative goes straight to the output lead, the switch sits on the positive side; test lit fine, decent brightness; loose parts look untidy, so model a shell, one print run of three sets takes over 4 hours; the two halves fit together seamlessly; three done (short on time). Over hills and around eighteen bends to the school; in class every student gets hands-on, small hands not yet skilled but earnest, helping each other, completing the circuit together and lighting their first light-controlled lamp; maybe one day this light will shine among the stars; the lights he made go to the best students; applause closes the last lesson. Comments (143): where to buy such a low-power LED, link? (5); Biao, when’s the next spot-welder sponsorship (why?); a cell must have a BMS, safety first / no BMS, aren’t you afraid the kids get blown up (creator replied); the charging port sits too low to plug in easily; a white shell would diffuse the light better; what brand of multimeter (ALIENTEK); how’s the welder / how much.

Can you fix a Xiaomi water purifier tap

Do you fix gas guns

Opens on a snowy day; a carbon-fibre umbrella that stands up to wind, shaft broken in one spot, fixed and painted with rust-proof coating. A fan’s imported speaker (brought back from the US) has sat for a long time — not that I won’t work for fans, just too much on; once it reaches the Boring Appliance Repair Workshop it must get done: open it up, the cells have gone bad and leaked, starved to death, 322mΩ, scrap, big cells; Yu brand; fit two power cells (spot-welded, the high-power unit with the red leads); measure 8.3V, full charge; reassemble and test whether it sings — it sings. A hair dryer, real or fake Dyson unknown, motor won’t spin, one squeak and nothing, reading 30.5, diagnosed as a burnt motor; find a motor (41.3), swap it in, perfect, very OK, revived at once; test again, perfectly repaired, real or fake Dyson, all sorted. A Haier MOOKA TV that keeps rebooting: upgrade it, the upgrade must use factory data, durable, no freezing or crashing; slow first boot after the upgrade is the system buffering; the earlier rebooting was the main board being under-powered; no lag now, start enjoying it, sound and picture perfect, the overtime wasn’t wasted; TV questions answered by Teacher Zhang in the comments. 138 comments: rename it Fix-Anything (creator liked it); where did your son go (I’ll call him back tomorrow); the Dyson sometimes doesn’t respond when powered (minor issue); boss, is my Xiaodu done (hang on); brought back from the US? plenty at Nangong market (you know too much); a 511 umbrella leaks (you have one).

Auntie brings a toy car: steering bad, lights not on, only lighting up now and then; her handle is 'Special Talent'; batteries test 4V/3.1V, charged, all freshly replaced. Auntie says fix the little toy first and if it's done well she'll bring the big e-bike; 'that's not right, I heard you fix things well so I came specially'; the repairman jokes 'that leaves me cold, no mood to fix it, I'll make it up on the price'. Fixed, it responds; the switch was reworked; ¥30 will do; 'come when auntie's not around'. Job two, a floor scrubber: replace a set of 10 cells; the customer brought it from Xinzhou, diagnosed the aged battery himself, doesn't seem to have a spot welder so asked us to weld it; spot-weld cell by cell (1234...); measure the cell voltage 3.79, 'these cells are really standard'; fit and test, check whether the battery locks in, original batteries are just better; plug in and watch the charging response; battery ¥40; charging wattage 36W, full power, floor scrubber perfectly fixed, cells balanced in every respect, let it charge a while. Comments: was the RC car dead because the board was shorted; only you do real repairs; a room full of floor scrubbers; all sorts of repair requests.