Li-ion tech Zhang re-cells: a customer’s 48V “15Ah” battery (made 24-09) goes green as soon as it’s plugged in and won’t charge or discharge; inside are salvaged old 18650s in 13S4P, really 10Ah, many leaking, crude workmanship; cells scrapped, BMS kept, rebuilt as 48V10Ah with 52 brand-new EVE 2.5Ah 18650s (13S4P), 0.2 nickel-plated steel strip on a capacitor welder (preheat 0.05ms / interval 20ms / gear 29), pre-cut insulating paper where the sense leads run, tabs welded in order and checked before connecting the board, 49.5V/4.92A charge/discharge test
Opens with the customer: the battery hasn’t lasted well since 2024, used to charge for three hours, now goes green the moment it’s plugged in. Label says 48V 15Ah, made 2024-09; the problem is it won’t charge or discharge. Opened up: cylindrical 18650s; the case says 15Ah, but the cells are 2.5 each in 4P, really 10Ah; clearly salvaged old cells used a second time, many already leaking; very crude workmanship; he decides to scrap the cells and rebuild with brand-new ones; the only usable part of the old pack is the BMS, removed for reuse. Rebuild: 18650 at 2.5Ah each, 48V10Ah needs 13S4P, 52 cells, brand-new EVE; laid into the holder one group positive-up, next negative-up; series raises voltage, then 4P adds capacity. Welding uses 0.2 nickel-plated steel strip on a capacitor spot welder, settings on the screen (preheat auto 0.05ms, interval 20ms, gear 29, trigger 0.6s, continuous); the process is simple as long as nothing is missed; check for missed or wrong welds afterwards. Fit the BMS, usually on the negative side; pre-cut insulating paper where the sense leads run; tidy the ribbon and weld it to each group’s tab in order — the order must not be wrong; the sense leads monitor each group’s voltage and cut the BMS circuit if it goes too high or too low; to avoid mistakes, after each weld the lead order is checked on a test board before connecting the BMS. Finally the + and − power leads go on, a proper charge/discharge test (49.53V 4.92A), then insulation, back into the case, done. 16 comments: are the EVE 25Ps genuine (print and barcode misaligned); how much for a pack (1); how much for a 48V50Ah for a ride-share bike; how much per cell; are you in Shenyang; the original didn’t even have a holder; what BMS is that small.
Let me ask, are these EVE 25P cells genuine? Every video on telling real EVE cells from fake says the printed code on both ends lines up with the barcode, but in the video the right side isn’t aligned. A bit confused, anyone who knows care to explain?
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