#CrazyFun

A follower reported that 0.2 copper stacked on 0.2 nickel-plated steel strip wouldn’t weld; the creator says he doesn’t recommend 0.2 copper (very demanding on the machine). With an AWithZ UF20B + upgraded No. 6 welding pen at gear 60 he runs a same-settings comparison: 0.05 copper strip welded to a rusty iron pipe and to the negative of a Jiashikai cell. The welds on iron are blackened (high current), and pulling tears two holes out of the iron; 0.05 copper stacked on 0.12 nickel-plated steel strip on the cell negative peels off leaving two holes, not torn apart. Conclusion: at the same gear 60 the result on iron is clearly much better; use nickel strip as a base layer before welding copper for a stronger joint.

Opens: no addiction to fishing, but addicted to spot welding — a few days without welding and the hands itch. Today testing gears 10/15/20/25; the machine is an AWithZ UF20B with the upgraded No. 6 welding pen; last time was gears 1–5, this time from 10 up in steps of 5, preheat and the rest untouched, only the gear changes, two welds per gear. Gear 10: the 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip peels off, leaving two holes, two holes in the nickel strip too; gear 15: takes some effort, felt it in the hand muscles; gear 20: can already tear the nickel-plated steel strip; gear 25: completely OK, hand hurts from peeling, switch hands; the strip-tearing result is achieved, no need to go higher. A fan says 0.15 copper on 0.2 nickel-plated steel strip won’t weld — I asked whether there was a nickel base layer; with this unit I don’t recommend copper straight on, because copper is fairly hard; a stacked-copper test will be added to the series; the test only speaks for the AWithZ UF20B in my shop window, ones bought elsewhere perform differently, don’t flame me; this is the upgraded No. 6 pen, without the upgrade the result differs too, a non-upgraded-pen test to follow. 37 comments: quit food delivery and go work at a battery factory; why not get a better welder, it’s painful to watch (I also have an AWithZ P60F, it’s enough); can it weld EVE C40 (with a nickel adapter it can); will it work on Gotion copper-terminal 20A (probably not); is the low/high gear difference current or time; what current at the tip on gear 10; 6045 without stacked copper, straight 0.15 nickel-plated OK?; the No. 6 cable’s current doesn’t match a two-capacitor home-built unit.

Welder series: AWithZ UF20B with the upgraded No. 6 welding pen, trying gears 1–5; preheat 0, interval 0, (trigger) 1 millisecond; two rolls of nickel-plated steel strip, no idea which is 0.1 and which is 0.12, never mind; welding the 0.1 or 0.12 nickel-plated steel strip onto a Jiashikai negative. Gear 1 result: won’t hold; up a gear, gear 2: gear 1 didn’t stick at all, gear 2 sticks a little; gear 3: sticks a bit tighter again but still peels off; gear 4: a bit hard to peel but still comes off; today up to gear 5: this is the upgraded No. 6 pen, 0.1–0.12 thickness on a Jiashikai negative, gear 5 feels like it might stick a little; that’s the show. 11 comments: wanted to hand-build to save money, good grief, a welder costs a few hundred, just buy a new one (creator: if you want cell performance there’s really no saving money); gears 10–12 for 21700; try a 0.3; either go 4 capacitors or 133 mains-frequency; go do deliveries instead of this (no deliveries to do); is 36V at the port normal on a 48V pack when switched off.

Opens musing that he wants nothing; the only thing he still enjoys is coming back to mess with this pile of stuff — the spot welder charges fast, full in no time, 20 gears. A follower earlier asked why the same spot welder couldn’t weld 0.2 nickel strip plus 0.15 copper; turned out it wasn’t bought from the storefront but on Xianyu; told him to swap either the 0.2 nickel strip or the 0.15 copper. The one in my storefront I verified myself: 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip as the base, 0.1 copper strip stacked in the middle, another 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip on top, no problem; a follower used 0.1 nickel-plated as the base, 0.15 copper stacked, 0.1 nickel-plated on top, also no problem; I myself, on a single bridge, 0.15 nickel strip base + 0.15 copper sheet, with the top layer slightly thinner, also no problem. I’m not asking you to buy from my storefront, but the data I tested is only for the storefront unit; if you buy it and it doesn’t deliver, come and yell at me (you do have to upgrade to the No. 6 welding pen); don’t ask me about the settings of units bought elsewhere, I don’t know. I just like doing a couple of welds when I’m idle, I like welding, not sure whether that’s a weird fetish. Comments: this welder is good, 0.15 copper stacked on 0.15 nickel-plated on a 21700 no problem, haven’t tried Jiashikai; careful, your little wife will grab you by the ear.

A follower asked whether the UF20B can weld copper stacked directly, I said no, he said support says it can with flux, so here’s the video, see for yourself. The four Jiashikai cells torn down last time (the leaky group out of the 15S is discarded), BMS and charge module not removed, bought a new LiFePO4 board with more ports; two Jiashikai in parallel for a power bank, 30,000 mAh; into the holder in parallel, 3.2V output, spot weld + to + and − to −; many previous copper-and-nickel weld marks on top; switch on the UF20B, charges quickly, try to charge it full before welding; copper 0.1, nickel 0.12 (maybe 0.1, no more than 0.12); added a braided sleeve to the lead himself, No. 6 lead; preheat 10, (interval) 20; straight on first: 0.1 copper + 0.1/0.12 nickel-plated, gear 40 → 70 (dangerous, don’t imitate, same unit as in the showcase): spots are OK but a tug shows they’re not solid, ‘so I don’t recommend copper straight on’; up to gear 90 with four spots, pretty spots but still not solid, don’t recommend stacking copper directly on this model. Next, nickel base: 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip as the base, with experience gear 30 is already very solid (a bit dark, current is high); 0.15 strip at gear 40 tears; up to gear 60 blows two holes; then 0.1 copper on the base: can’t be pulled, can’t be pulled off, clearly far more solid than straight onto the cell; with this model a nickel base works, straight on is not recommended, a thinner strip might stack. After welding, main + / − soldered to B+/B−, an epoxy board sealed on top and glue poured everywhere else; the power bank works, 93% charge; case closed, OK; the two Jiashikai cells sit inside like a single big cell, fast charge, charge board ¥20-odd, wrap with tape; 30,000 mAh, more than enough for food delivery. 68 comments: cells can’t be torn down over and over, three times and they’re basically done; music too loud; will a single layer of 0.3 nickel do; 0.15 copper under, 0.2 nickel-plated on top, weld directly?; can this machine do a 0.2 nickel base; pure nickel costs more than copper strip and doesn’t spark; only this episode showed me copper straight on isn’t stable; 32140 1P16S without a BMS?

Hand burnt, who knows how many strands blown — today’s main job is swapping the welding-pen sleeving for the braided sleeving the comments recommended. This AWithZ P60F blew up on him twice before, the pen even charred black. Question: is the P60F’s gear 30 the same as the UF20B’s gear 30? In theory gear 30 can weld Jiashikai cells. Try 0.15 nickel strip on the P60F at gear 30: two spots, tear two holes, fine, no different from the UF20B at gear 30; the strip stays on and curls off. The leads all charred black because he carelessly touched other nickel strip while welding; look at that wound, how many strands blown; when your hands are clumsy, never short it. Sleeving: the big one won’t go on (can’t even get a finger in), the slightly smaller one works, feed it from the front, there’s some room inside, so touching something else won’t blow it up any more; the pen that blew up before had who knows how many copper strands blown through, terrifying; after the swap no fear of touching nickel strip — perfect. Then the UF20B’s pair of pens gets the same treatment, a perfect mod. The UF20B at gear 30 on 0.15 nickel strip also tears two holes, very solid; up to gear 40 is harsher, a real tearing effect; a 0.15 nickel base can take 0.1 to 0.15 copper on top. Job done. Comments (87): polyamide / cotton-blend sleeving is softer than nylon (now you tell me); same UF20B at gear 60 on 32140 LiFePO4 is weak (pen upgraded? nickel base first? the parameters were given in a previous video); how thick a nickel-plated strip for a 72V30A e-bike with a 1200W motor (two layers of 0.15 should do, depends on your welder); sleeving spec (triple-weave dense PET braid, flame-retardant nylon 3–60mm anti-vibration snake-skin sleeving, 12mm black / silver, 2m); hand-built capacitor welders are still the real deal; press down firmly and the welds look good with no splatter.

Straight short, ‘blew it up, bro’, cotton swab from the bag to wipe his hand — just got cut by the nickel strip again, the welding pen touched the strip and blew twice; the corner of the strip went in and it ‘burst like tomato juice’, this build really wrecks your hands. The 50A copper lug connected and a dab of solder on it; meant to spot-weld it onto the copper plate but found the lug too thick, so back to the old way, screw it, heat-shrink over it, onto the copper plate, then spot-weld to the main positive and negative; when soldering the leads the positive must go to the red positive, get it wrong and it blows up again. Nearly blew it up again just now: welding the main negative, this pen isn’t fully wrapped, it has a gap, the gap touched a positive, bang, the cable was ripped straight off, terrifying, the cable feels unsafely designed — not fully enclosed, and yes enclosing it hurts cooling, but I keep touching other things, clip another strip and it blows; same recipe as before: high-temperature glue, then cutting paper, then a layer of fireproof board on top, this corner is the blackened spot; the short blew right at the pen; this time the main +/− get sealed with 704 silicone first, then a few turns of fiber tape and the sense harness can be soldered. Comments (116): sleeve the pen in nylon braided mesh (noted); my pen is identical and it blew straight through the 50 mm² welding cable, only a few strands left (that bad?); wrap it in polyimide film; no BMS? not on LiFePO4?; solder the main +/− straight onto the copper plate (I prefer screws); safety first (scared stiff); running deliveries in Changsha.

A detail lesson for beginners. After the fish paper is on, always write the series-group number at each position, so the connection order lines up. Mark and cut the 0.2 copper strip (it’s quite heavy), punch holes in it: when soldering, twist the wire into the hole first, then add just a touch of solder, then seal with a dab of glue. Connection logic: on the first face join 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6… up to 10; on the underside the matching positions are 4–5, 5–6, 6–7, 7–8, 8–9, 9–10; group 10 gets a long strip across to the far side; flip over and do 11–20 the same way. Someone said laying that piece on top is dangerous — it isn’t dangerous right now because the underside isn’t connected yet; once the underside is connected, laying it like that will spark. Join it cluster by cluster: finish this side, flip, then join the matching face — never connect the wrong ones, a wrong connection is a short that blows you up, bro. Settings: AWithZ P60F, gear 587, settled after a lot of trial runs; it tests your technique: copper strip underneath, nickel strip stacked on top, then weld; trim the surplus corners. When you flip, the two cells joined underneath on this side must not be joined again on top, or it shorts; group 20 is effectively the main positive; laying four like this is fine, laying six like that shorts; you must have respect for it — getting blown up is truly terrifying, no joke. Partway through, lift the strip now and then to check the welds are solid — the gear has been tuned countless times but still check. Continuous welding makes the pen hot; 4 pieces on that side, 8 on this side, then 3 more — 11 pieces — off to the evening rush to deliver orders, more when there’s time. Comments: is it Jiashikai 32140 (Jiashikai); copper strip 0.2×40? (0.2×50); can the UF20B stack 0.2 copper (no; with a nickel base it can stack 0.1–0.15 copper); building a 6045? (yes); which gear? (P60F has 999 gears, I use around 600); everyone says AWithZ is junk, is it true; when will you upgrade to laser welding.

I’m telling you not to try this: this time 0.2 copper sheet plus 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip goes straight on, no nickel base layer; a test weld first, the cell wasn’t sanded, it just has a few old holes from before; the welder is an AWithZ P60F, gear 400, preheat 0.1, interval 1ms; before he even welds, someone says it won’t hold; the current is fierce, you can’t go in square-on or it burns right through the sheet, keep the pens as flat as possible; the pins stuck; it didn’t bond but the nickel strip was pierced clean through, the technique must be wrong, 0.2 copper and nickel both burned with holes and still no bond, or maybe I don’t know how to run the machine; an internal-resistance meter (HRM-10) reads the cell at 3.32V; swap to thinner nickel strip and try, still 0.2 copper strip, gear 450, looks like it might take this time? no, it won’t, forget it, these punched holes crack me up; back to the nickel-plated steel strip, I refuse to believe it; adjusted the preheat, gear 600, whether it’ll punch through the cell I don’t know, getting a bit annoyed after it wouldn’t hold; gear 700: this looks burnt black, too big, too strong; truly can’t be pulled off, cut my hand; now it really won’t come off, the copper stuck to the top, the 0.2 copper strip torn right into a hole; if that’s not enough I’ll add another 100 gears, that’ll definitely do it; so that’s why I tell you not to try 0.2 copper lightly, it just blew two holes, and at gear 700 the current is still too high. 308 comments: if this welder can weld 0.2 copper, every spot-welder seller online can shut down (2); my ¥100-odd unit does 0.1 stacked on 0.1 copper no sweat (2); your skills are questionable; bought a UF20B after your video and it can’t weld 0.1 + 0.1; 0.2 copper + 0.15 nickel-plated won’t take, add 0.1 nickel-plated and you still need flux paste; pins too thin, use 3mm round tips; 700 works, thick pins are best; weld the copper first then the nickel (are you serious?); test the Xiaoqiang; a four-capacitor rig welds it instantly.