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Doomsday Lab@morilab ·
Jump starter, part 2: three layers of nickel tabs welded with almost no charge used; 4S BMS + balance board wired (main +, +1, +2, +4, main −), charges at 14.5V, panel shows full, USB is a slow charge, Type-C charging works; main + / − leads swapped for thicker wire, bundled and insulated with electrical tape, back into the shell
The whole pack is welded up, with three layers of tabs on top — very solid; the charge level has barely dropped, so it should weld a lot of packs — very handy. Wiring the BMS: main + goes to +1, +2, +4 and main −; the leads are short, so extend them; red sleeve on the main +, yellow on the rest, foam pads for a first fix; trim any sharp protrusions; fix the pack first, then wire it, or it’s hard to secure afterwards. With the BMS and balance board connected it charges at 14.5V from a low-voltage supply; press the switch and it shows full, the lamp is quite bright; USB charges a phone at 29% — works, but a very slow trickle; Type-C charging shows normal, the last lamp blinking means not quite full. The main + and − ‘thick’ leads aren’t actually thick, so they’re swapped for wire a good size up from stock. With all the main leads connected and tidied, no heat-shrink to hand, so it’s bundled with electrical tape, two turns over each contact point; it fits back into the original shell exactly, with extra insulation on the main + to prevent shorts. Comments: a car draws 200–600A to start, 3P 18650 gives 60–90A at most, and with enough current the nickel-plated steel strip burns through in seconds (creator: cells picked up from a live stream, 2C is as good as it gets); does drawing power straight off the pack without going through the BMS matter (creator: discharge doesn’t go through the board); copper strip thickness and cell C-rate are both too low, too dangerous; where to buy the welder (shop window); leave a watermark to stop reposts; part 3 tests capacity.
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A home-made jump starter from 18650 cells — only 2C cells, picked up for ¥20-odd on the Douyin store; DIY car emergency power, built into a bought Bluetooth-speaker shellProjectsDoomsday Lab

Comments (14)

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此数大吉 · 8 mo ago

Where did you buy the spot welder

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重生之末日实验室Author · 8 mo ago

It's in my showcase

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像狗一样奔跑 · 1 yr ago

Starting a car takes roughly 200–600A. Your 3P 18650s, even if they're power cells, give 60–90A at most. Not enough current and it's got no punch; enough current and your nickel-plated steel strip burns through in seconds

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重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

The cells I grabbed from the livestream can't get there, hitting 2C would already be great

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在哪 · 1 yr ago

Starting a car with this is way too dangerous, copper strip too thin, cell C rating too low, I bet it's done after one or two jumps

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圆 · 1 yr ago

This takes power directly without going through the BMS, does that cause any problems, with the BMS used for charging

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千总 · 5 mo ago

How does this board manage to both charge and output? What board is it, got a link? ^_^

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重生之末日实验室Author · 5 mo ago

Discharge bypasses the board

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linlin · 1 yr ago

Always watermark your own videos, or anyone can repost them as their own

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重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

Lots of reposts already, no big deal, just sharing this bit of knowledge

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像狗一样奔跑 · 1 yr ago

My two crappy pens are a bit lacking, I want to work out a one-piece pen, otherwise there's no hand free to hold the strip

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像狗一样奔跑 · 1 yr ago

Abandoned? Where's episode 3? Did you eat it???

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重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

Testing capacity, charging

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懒人寻味 · 7 mo ago

Beginners, remember to wear gloves, seriously

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