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Doomsday Lab@morilab ·
Bluetooth-speaker shell turned car jump starter (part 1): 12 × 2500mAh cells in 3P4S, AWithZ welder in auto mode firing 0.5s after contact, insulating paper on the negative-can side to stop shorts, 16.01V when done; lead-acid tester reads 12.6mΩ / CCA 264; even three layers of nickel strip weld through, 'buying one for a hundred-odd yuan beats making your own'
A car jump-start pack built from a solar Bluetooth-speaker shell grabbed cheap on Douyin. The cells were also grabbed from the Douyin store, all around 2500mAh; paired with a Type-C 5V input charging board. He had built a spot welder from a microwave transformer before — hard work and poor results; then grabbed an AWithZ spot welder that runs a long time per charge, a hundred-odd yuan (an even better deal when it was ¥168), and it comes with small nickel strips. Before welding, stick insulating paper on the negative-can side so overheating can't short positive to negative. 3P4S; welder in auto mode, fires 0.5s after contact, tack one end first and press firmly; welds are clean and very solid; don't weld the middle too tight, leave a little slack — 'leave a line when welding and swelling stays friendly'; a foolproof device, very convenient. After all the positives were welded the charge was still full; the built-in battery beats his big homemade rig by far. Series: connect pairs in series, flip and connect again, main positive and main negative; measured DC voltage 16.01V, just right for a jump starter. Measured with a lead-acid battery tester as a makeshift: internal resistance 12.6mΩ, voltage 13.9V, discharge CCA 264 — should start a 2.0T car normally. Main positive and negative still need a few extra wires to boost discharge current. Test: two and three layers of nickel strip stacked both weld through solidly; conclusion, buying beats building, it's in the shop window. Comments: someone pointed out that a jump starter without copper strip makes no sense and the cells can barely do 2C (creator agrees, 'it'll do'); someone says this kind of welder uses a pouch cell that swells after heavy use and loses performance until it won't fire; a lead-acid tester can't measure Li-ion accurately (creator replies the accuracy is poor).
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Homemade jump starter: a DIY car emergency power supply, turning a bought Bluetooth-speaker shell into a car jump-start packProjectsDoomsday Lab

Comments (17)

陈
陈家大馍 · 1 yr ago

Creator liked

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

Neat

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充
充 · 1 yr ago

I want to buy a resistance tester, ideally one that does both aluminum and lead-acid batteries. Saw you use this one so I asked customer service, they said it can’t

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

No, the one I’m using is a lead-acid battery resistance tester for measuring CCA, it can’t test Li-ion

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4
4278935078570475 · 1 yr ago

Can’t you film the whole thing?? It’s only half every time

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

Just finished editing, posting right away

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用
用户6944170740519 · 1 yr ago

Your welder uses a pouch cell, weld too much and it swells — creator replied

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冰
冰城瓜哥 · 1 yr ago

Sloppy build, OK for messing around, but as a jump starter there’s no excuse for not using copper strip

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

I doubt these cells can even do 2C, it’ll have to do

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绿
绿波电龙 · 1 yr ago

I have this kind of welder too, fine at first, but after a while the battery degrades and it can’t weld any more.

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

What brand?

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绿
绿化带收割 · 1 yr ago

Give me the battery

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经
经方阿文 · 10 mo ago

Can a lead-acid battery resistance tester measure Li-ion batteries?

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 10 mo ago

If the voltage is in range, yes, but the accuracy is poor, can’t compare with a Li-ion one

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J
John. · 10 mo ago

Blow yourself up, bro

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Y
YYのBB · 1 yr ago

Did you buy the ¥5000 one? Why so cheap

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重
重生之末日实验室Author · 1 yr ago

The cheapest is ¥160, mine is the U3

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