Lefeng puts 0.2 copper + 0.15 nickel-plated straight onto a Jiashikai negative with the P60F: gear 400 sticks the pins and the nickel strip is pierced without the copper bonding; thinner nickel at gear 450 still won’t take, “these holes crack me up”; preheat adjusted, gear 600; gear 700 “burnt black, way too strong” but finally can’t be pulled off, cuts his hand, the 0.2 copper tears into a hole before it counts as welded — “I’m telling you, don’t try it, the current is too high”; comments: weld the copper first then the nickel / use thick 3mm round-tip pins / your skills are questionable
I’m telling you not to try this: this time 0.2 copper sheet plus 0.15 nickel-plated steel strip goes straight on, no nickel base layer; a test weld first, the cell wasn’t sanded, it just has a few old holes from before; the welder is an AWithZ P60F, gear 400, preheat 0.1, interval 1ms; before he even welds, someone says it won’t hold; the current is fierce, you can’t go in square-on or it burns right through the sheet, keep the pens as flat as possible; the pins stuck; it didn’t bond but the nickel strip was pierced clean through, the technique must be wrong, 0.2 copper and nickel both burned with holes and still no bond, or maybe I don’t know how to run the machine; an internal-resistance meter (HRM-10) reads the cell at 3.32V; swap to thinner nickel strip and try, still 0.2 copper strip, gear 450, looks like it might take this time? no, it won’t, forget it, these punched holes crack me up; back to the nickel-plated steel strip, I refuse to believe it; adjusted the preheat, gear 600, whether it’ll punch through the cell I don’t know, getting a bit annoyed after it wouldn’t hold; gear 700: this looks burnt black, too big, too strong; truly can’t be pulled off, cut my hand; now it really won’t come off, the copper stuck to the top, the 0.2 copper strip torn right into a hole; if that’s not enough I’ll add another 100 gears, that’ll definitely do it; so that’s why I tell you not to try 0.2 copper lightly, it just blew two holes, and at gear 700 the current is still too high. 308 comments: if this welder can weld 0.2 copper, every spot-welder seller online can shut down (2); my ¥100-odd unit does 0.1 stacked on 0.1 copper no sweat (2); your skills are questionable; bought a UF20B after your video and it can’t weld 0.1 + 0.1; 0.2 copper + 0.15 nickel-plated won’t take, add 0.1 nickel-plated and you still need flux paste; pins too thin, use 3mm round tips; 700 works, thick pins are best; weld the copper first then the nickel (are you serious?); test the Xiaoqiang; a four-capacitor rig welds it instantly.
Lefeng admits he hasn’t figured the U3 out: the Jiashikai negative is steel, so he tests on a stainless-steel knife — 0.1 nickel strip only needs gear 1.5–1.8 (anything around 1.x is fine), 0.15 nickel strip at gear 2.5 blackens and throws sparks, not good, still not dialed in; cells are on the way and he’ll keep experimenting; comments: ordered from the storefront and it won’t power on, microwave-transformer welder also failed, once you get into it you’ll want a capacitor unit
The comments say I can’t even figure out the AWithZ spot welder; honestly, I haven’t, I’ve tried lots of settings. Because the Jiashikai negative is steel, I test on a stainless-steel knife: for 0.1 nickel strip on this cell the gear only needs to be 1-point-something, 1.5 is enough, and there won’t be a problem; how many gears 0.15 nickel strip needs I don’t know, bumped to 2.5 to try: too high a gear blackens it, it’s already throwing sparks, the result isn’t great, probably still not dialed in; the cells are bought and on the way, I’ll keep experimenting with this AWithZ spot welder. Title: 9.9 gears, 0.1 only needs gear 1.5–1.8; “I haven’t figured it out and you’re still buying it after me, unbelievable”. 207 comments: ordered from your storefront, arrived today and won’t power on (check whether it has charge; if it doesn’t work, return it right away); my microwave-transformer welder failed too (you’re going down the road I went down; the money for a hand-build buys one of these); a Zhongwei Zhixing 30s can’t weld 0.1 nickel-plated stacked on 0.1 copper to a Jiashikai negative (0.1 copper needs a ¥400–500 class machine); fine for beginners to play with but later you’ll definitely want a capacitor unit (yep); get a UF20B; how about the Xiaoqiang.
Lefeng gives up on hand-building a welder and buys the Douyin no. 1 seller, the AWithZ U3 Pro edition (11000mAh): unboxing (thick welding pen, nickel strip, USB output, manual key), auto mode fires the moment it touches and blows through 0.1 strip, ‘a bit fierce’, switches to manual; two welds on 0.05 copper can’t be pulled apart, it tears and still leaves the welds; 99 gears (9 coarse, with fine steps), interval left untouched; doubles as a power bank, ‘spend your power-bank money on this, it’s very good’; 550 comments backing capacitor welders / Xiaoqiang / transformer welders
The old welder couldn’t stack copper and hand-building was a detour, so he got the Douyin no. 1 seller, the AWithZ U3 Pro (picked up at the Cainiao station, 11000mAh). Unboxing: main unit box, the welding pen looks pretty thick, nickel strip too (check the thickness), the small holes on the cable are for the switch; long-press to power on, the screen shows interval / preheat (milliseconds) and mode auto; the top port is USB output for charging a phone, there is a separate charging port; the M key is the manual weld key (trigger in manual mode). First try in auto mode, set it down and it fired without pressing the switch, ‘gave me a fright, a bit fierce’, went straight through the 0.1 (steel strip), probably the gear wasn’t set right; switched to manual, where it only welds when you press the switch; that last weld was very solid, steel strip 0.05. Gears: 9 coarse gears each with fine steps, 99 gears in all; interval not adjusted. Two light welds of 0.05 copper on a 26650: can’t pull it apart, it already tears, and pulled off it still leaves two welds behind that won’t come off, welded very securely, much better than the old welder, handy and compact and doubles as a power bank; no cells on hand so the test ends there; spending your power-bank money on this is a good deal. 550 comments: the Xiaoqiang capacitor welder stacks 0.15 copper and is more reliable (creator: buy buy buy); why buy another battery welder, still on the detour, capacitor is the way to go (getting ready for a 45A battery next time); don’t mess with NMC, it explodes; for value it’s still Xiaoqiang; AWithZ really is good, well built; microwave-transformer welder was no good so also got an AWithZ 539; going to buy a Glitter 811H; a dual-900W transformer welder is far stronger, battery welders max out at 0.4 and the internal battery fades; with that money buy a Xiaoqiang.
Ran into a problem? Have an idea for improvement? Tell us. We read every piece of feedback carefully. Valid feedback earns points, redeemable for accessories / coupons.
Thanks for your feedback!
We'll review it within 1–5 business days. If you left an email, valid feedback earns points redeemable for accessories / coupons. If we need to follow up, we'll contact you at the email you left.
WeldWorld is an open platform for user sharing; content does not represent official advice.
Improper battery handling can cause fire, explosion, chemical burns and serious injury. Read the full AWithZ Safety & Usage Guidelines before any lithium battery assembly, spot welding or testing, and before using the community.
Community content is personal experience, not verified by AWithZ; where it conflicts with official documents, the official documents prevail.
Never apply someone else's settings directly; always start at a low level and test on scrap.
Before copying any procedure, go through the self-check list in Part 3 of the guidelines.