AWithZ Service & Support

2026 pin-replacement guide and thermal-protection notes.

999-step fine setting table.

Knob-model operating notes.

AWithZ welders come in three series. Handheld H series (e.g. H1, H2, HF7): welds up to 0.3 mm max in many materials — pure nickel, nickel-plated, stainless steel, steel, iron, red copper and more. The lightest and most portable, suited to occasional use such as home tasks, field repairs and personal DIY. Universal U series (e.g. UF20B, UK3, UK1): welds up to 0.7 mm max in the same range of materials. Balancing portability and power, it suits more frequent use and thicker welds, widely used for 18650/21700/32140 pack DIY and nickel conversion on phone batteries. Professional P series (e.g. P60F, P120D): welds up to 2 mm max; a professional high-power welder with up to 69200KW, handling pure nickel, nickel-plated, stainless steel, steel, iron, red copper and more. The P series has the highest power and welding capability, suited to large prismatic cells / copper / aluminium-to-nickel welding, thick pure nickel, nickel-plated, stainless, steel and iron, and hard-to-weld copper / aluminium. It is widely used by small factories, repair shops, R&D labs and professionals — individuals and businesses who need high welding precision, thick or difficult materials and heavy daily use.

Choose by the material, thickness and how often you weld. Use the AWithZ finder for a tailored recommendation, or ask customer service in our official online store.

The most common cause is a level set too low. Raise the level one step at a time. Next check whether the tips are oxidised and blackened: the oxide layer blocks current, so clean it with sandpaper or the included dressing tool. If the material has oil or oxide on the surface, clean it with alcohol or sandpaper before welding. A dropping charge is another common cause: almost every welder on the market welds weaker as the charge runs low, while AWithZ's in-house technology compensates the weld energy precisely in real time, keeping welds solid and consistent whether the charge is high or low.

Big sparks usually mean the level is too high or the pens are not pressed firmly enough. The tips must be in tight contact with the material at the moment of welding; a gap or loose contact throws sparks. If you burn through, the energy is too high: lower the level or shorten the weld time. Test on scrap whenever you change material thickness.

Check two things. First the charge: as it drops, output current falls and welds get weaker, so keep it full or weld while charging. Almost every welder on the market welds weaker as the charge runs low, while AWithZ's in-house technology compensates the weld energy precisely in real time, keeping welds solid and consistent whether the charge is high or low.
Second the tips: they wear and blunt over time, the larger contact area lowers current density, so file them back to a point.

In auto mode the weld fires by itself once both pens touch the metal with enough pressure – convenient for runs of consecutive welds. In manual mode you trigger with the button on the pen or the foot switch, which suits single welds or precise timing. Models such as the P60F can set the number of pulses per trigger (1–3).

Level: output power level.
Trigger time: the delay before the main weld fires once the pens touch the workpiece and close the circuit.
Preheat: in ms (milliseconds), removes the oxide layer on the material.
Interval: in ms (milliseconds), the gap between preheat and the main weld.
Multi-pulse: with the pens held on the material, welds the set number of times in a row without lifting.
Multi-pulse interval: the gap between consecutive welds in multi-pulse mode.
Weld sound: turns the sound on or off.
Screen brightness: sets the display brightness.
Screen flip: sets the display orientation.
Auto power-off: how long the welder waits without activity before switching off

Taking the AWithZ UF20B as an example, for standard 0.1 mm nickel strip we recommend levels 5–10, 2 ms preheat, 2 ms interval and a single pulse to keep the joint solid. Exact settings vary slightly with cell type and material purity, so test on scrap first: start low and step up until the weld turns white and the strip tears without the nugget letting go.

Capacitor models (supercapacitor welders such as the P20B and UF20B) only work while plugged in. By their nature capacitors store very little energy, so the welder must stay connected to power during use. At home plug into mains; outdoors charge from a high-output power bank or portable power station whose output matches the device. AWithZ supercapacitor welders fast-charge: about one minute after power-on the capacitor is full and the screen shows “OK”.
Battery models (such as the UK3 and H2) carry a brand-new AWithZ purpose-built welding lithium battery, tested to 60,000 welds without swelling, and work wirelessly once charged. For example, the AWithZ UK3 has a 10000 mAh purpose-built battery for long field sessions.
Buying advice: for maximum portability and off-grid work choose a battery model; for sustained high output and thick materials choose a capacitor model, but make sure power is available. Avoid second-hand refurbished cells / supercapacitor welders and home-made or modified units from unqualified workshops; choose a well-reviewed brand welder with new cells / supercapacitors — safer and longer-lasting.

Avoid charging in hot or humid places, and use the original charger or one with matching specs. Supercapacitor welders support fast charging; a slight fan noise while charging is normal.

After each session check whether the tips are blackened or blunt. Blackened tips just need sanding back to bare metal; blunt or pitted tips should be filed back to a point with the included file. Or simply use the included spare needles, and replace them when badly worn. Keep the tips clean and free of oil.

First check whether thermal protection has kicked in: the built-in temperature protection temporarily disables output when it gets too hot and resumes output after cooling. Next check whether the charge is exhausted by connecting the charger and watching for the screen to light up. If the screen is on but there is no output, check that the pen plugs are fully seated and the settings are sensible.